The Truth About Chemical Exfoliation and Our Skin's Microbiome

How our insecurities can hurt us

How easy is it to lure us into buying a product that promises to “revolutionize our skin,” “eliminate the signs of aging,” or “get rid of wrinkles”?

Brands are experts at tapping into our insecurities, offering quick fixes that sound too good to resist. But what about the long-term effects? Feels a bit like those drug commercials, doesn’t it? "Possible side effects include bla bla bla…" Oh, and the sinking realization that the so-called “cure” might end up being worse than the problem itself.

Woman looking at the signs of aging on her face

AHAs and BHAs (Alpha and Beta Hydroxy Acids)

Some of the most common ingredients that claim to work wonders on our skin are alpha and beta hydroxy acids (AHAs and BHAs). These acids are featured in countless formulations designed to beautify, exfoliate, tighten, and smooth our complexion. But before we get swept up in the hype, let’s take a deeper look at what they can really do for our skin:

THE PROS:

  • Minimize Fine Lines & Wrinkles: AHAs and BHAs can help smoothe the skin’s surface, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

  • Improve Sun-Damaged Skin: They can help fade sun spots and improve skin texture caused by sun damage.

  • Treat Acne: These acids are known to reduce the appearance of acne by exfoliating dead skin cells that clog pores.

  • Stimulate Collagen Production: By exfoliating the outer layers of skin, they encourage collagen production, which is key for youthful, plump skin.

THE CONS:

  • Skin Dryness: These acids can strip the skin of its natural moisture, leaving it drier than before.

  • Irritation & Sensitivity: They can cause redness, swelling, itching, and even skin discoloration in some people.

  • Compromised Skin Barrier: Overuse can weaken the skin’s protective barrier, making it more vulnerable to environmental stressors.

  • Thinning Skin: Frequent use of high-concentration AHAs or BHAs can result in thinning skin over time.

  • Increased Sun Sensitivity: These acids can make your skin more sensitive to sunlight, increasing the risk of hyperpigmentation.

Our Skin’s Microbiome

The skin’s microbiome (the community of beneficial bacteria and microorganisms that live on the skin and protect it) thrives in a balanced environment. That balance can be disrupted by the slew of chemicals we put on it for the sake of youth and beauty. Just like our gut, our skin needs balance. It’s not meant to be stripped, or attacked with harsh chemicals that can weaken its natural defenses.

Frequent chemical exfoliation with AHAs and BHAs strips away essential lipids and proteins, which are key for nurturing beneficial bacteria on your skin. Our skin’s natural pH is slightly acidic (around 4.5–5.5), helping to maintain a healthy microbiome. When AHAs and BHAs are used in high concentrations, or too frequently, they can alter this delicate balance, leaving your skin vulnerable to harmful bacteria, irritation, and inflammation.

The Effects of Harsh Exfoliation:

  • Reduced Microbial Diversity: Our skin’s microbiome thrives when it’s populated with diverse, beneficial bacteria. Harsh exfoliation can reduce this diversity, eliminating bacteria that help protect against breakouts, inflammation, and dehydration.

  • Compromised Protection: When the microbiome is disrupted, our skin becomes less able to protect itself from environmental stressors and allergens. This can lead to redness, irritation, breakouts, or even conditions like perioral dermatitis or fungal acne.

  • Overreaction to Other Products: When our microbiome is out of balance, our skin can react more sensitively to other products, even ones we’ve used for years.

It’s important to remember that even if a formulation contains soothing ingredients meant to balance the irritation caused by these acids, it likely still contains preservatives—ingredients that can further disrupt our skin’s microbiome.

What’s the Solution?

Rather than relying on aggressive chemical exfoliants, it’s best to choose gentler methods that respect and maintain the integrity of our skin's natural barrier, like our Petal Sugar/Honey Face and Lip Polish and Rose Clay Mask. I believe in the power of gentle, restorative skincare that nurtures the skin’s natural rhythms. Simple, plant-based ingredients support our microbiome, boost our skin’s health, and leave us glowing—without harsh exfoliants or risky quick fixes.

The best way to care for our skin is to nurture it with the same kindness and attention that we give the rest of our body. Let’s allow our skin to breathe, flourish, and thrive—NATURALLY!